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It was essentially answered in posts 3 & 8, where Darien measured the ones taken out of his powerhouse lanterns... Checking the dates on a thread is never a bad thing. Making a new thread is also never a bad thing if you are in doubt.

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You do know this thread is five years old and the OP is no longer on the forum?

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Jdlsc wrote:

It appears my tank already has the 413H valve and the 413G generator I just purchased doesn’t fit. I’d need to find a tank with the 413G valve.

Cigar Mike probably has one... and they're usually only about $10.

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<blockquote>Jdlsc wrote: Would this be the correct valve and generator? If so, ouch, that price is steep. I know OCP is about as good as it gets for parts pricing and availability, I guess this is what these go for. <a target="_blank" href="https://www.oldcolemanparts.co...

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<blockquote>Jdlsc wrote: The “crud” on the main burner is soot. I’ve already removed the burners and cleaned them and the manifold. I actually had the manifold soaking in evaporust then brushed and rinsed with water. The soot is all new from the rich flames since the cleaning. I ...

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I'm not sure what that tank is off of, but the generator is too small. It's like throwing a hotdog down a hallway. Look at the gap where it inserts into the bunsen. I think you might have a 413 tank with a 425 valve assembly and generator installed. <a rel="lightbox" href="/files/at...

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AL wrote: would it had a mica globe?

Yes, but many were often replaced later in life with a pyrex globe when the mica got tatty.

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I once spent $60 refurbing a 220F. It was a gift, and I was aware it was a $8 lantern. If you are unfamiliar with the takedown and disassembly of the lantern type (and the 220/228 2 mantles are substantially identical from 1935-72) then it's a great learning experience and a place to start and an...

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<blockquote>culpdesigns wrote: What is the shelf life of white gas? When do we know that the gas has gone bad? I have not seen this question on here before. Does anyone have a good answer on this? How do we check for this? Chris</blockquote> It actually ...

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<blockquote>Kerohead wrote: 9 minutes 55 seconds in..... </blockquote> <a href="/files/attachments/3665284-Screenshot from 2017-12-18 17-24-25.jpg" target="_blank" rel="lightbox"><img src="/files/attachments/3665284-Screenshot from 2017-12-18 17-24-25.jpg" alt="Scre...

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Burned a couple of sealed containers from 1994 a few years ago. No issues, still smelled "sweet" when I opened them. IN a sealed container, the lifespan is quite long. Decades easily. I wouldn't be surprised if you could use stuff that was a century old, if there were any...

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Found these in photobucket as I was cleaning it out... Probably from another older movie lanterns thread in the last 5 years. Magnum PI. Magnum has to rescue a model, who as it turns out was just camping. <a target="_blank" href="/files/attachments/3656355-magnumlante...

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<blockquote>ke4ljh wrote: I would be interested to know of, which of the aforementioned thread sealing compounds or compounds not yet listed, are None Permanent and might also assist in reducing friction at dissasembly/overhaul to prevent damaging par...

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<blockquote>Irunongas wrote: That is the copper leaching out. Should be able steel wool it off.</blockquote> Zinc actually. The citric acid removed the zinc and the "pink" is the remaining copper in the alloy. Nothing to worry about, like everyone else has said, a little time w...

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Loctite 242.

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Yes, as will ones from a 200.

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Aquarium gravel is probably a bad idea. Besides breaking into smaller pieces, the fancy colored stuff is actually coated. The coating flakes off and adds more cruft into the tank to wash out. I like sheetmetal screws for this task.

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<blockquote>Nomo reoil wrote: Still no DVR so no Pic. The Avengers: Age of Ultron. Scene at the Barton farm in the machine shed, Tony Stark talking to Nick Fury. Lantern on a low bench to the left of the tractor. A little light for Coleman green but I don't think it was seafoam. ...

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Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows. A Limey lantern and a Euro stove. I guess even wizards need GPAs. <a target="_blank" href="/files/attachments/3580139-harry%20stove.jpg" rel="lightbox"><img class="bbc_img" alt="harry stove.jpg" src="/files/attachments/3580139-harry%...

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<blockquote>Banjoman wrote: It's burning a 99 mantle now. I put in about 15-20 pumps to get it going and another 20 afterwards. It wouldn't fire up on low pressure pumps like everyone says they're suppose to. So I just added a few pumps at a time till it lit let it warm up a bit the...

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It's not worth risking your life or some unwitting person's in the future. It's a common lantern. Get a new milspec fount, or if you don't feel the need of a parts well, any 220F or earlier fount will fit.

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My first bet would be Canadian. YOu should be able to tell based on the clocking and possibly the valve and burner cage. I also recall some folks who had a Sears 200 sized lantern with a Coleman stamp and a 200 with the baseplate stamp of a 502 stove. Weird stuff happened and Colema...

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This is a great improvement over the stock pump CV

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Good Job! I've got a slant that I fought with for weeks before finally giving up and turning it into a quicklite. It was a problematic design, but when They're running well, they're spectacular!

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Did you block the air tube? The secondary air tube that provided air when the instalight function was intact. It's possible that you're still somehow managing to pull air with the fuel. Cap the end of that secondary air tube and see if the problem goes away.

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Majicwrench wrote: I've never had a Thermos shoot flames out the pump hole

I have. Bad NRV. But I think We've had this discussion before... :-)

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<blockquote>Majicwrench wrote: I disagree, I have several Thermos lanterns that are wonderful with the OE pump and valve, and some I have put a Euro NRV into that work wonderfully. Let's see a show of hands, who has never had a Coleman lantern do some sort of fireball??<b...

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<blockquote>SV Falcon wrote: . I went to check the generator tip and found the PO had overtightened it and broke off the threads . New R55 is on order from OCP. In the event that the generator is not the culprit for the inconsistent fuel delivery , </blockquote> The "Q" tip ...

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<blockquote>Gand28 wrote: A 220 pricker works just fine in a 200A generator...now all you engineers and machinists will tell me that a few thou difference in tip size is not going to work, but it does. The prickers are the same when laid side by side and if you could measure the wir...

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<blockquote>JimL wrote: Some good points Dennis, except for the part about Academy Sports. We don't all have an Academy Sports within driving distance. <img alt="[sSa_cry4]" class="emoticon bbc_img" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v300/Murff/Emoticons/sSa_cry4.gif" title="Cry...

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For suitcase stoves, there's hardly ever a reason to replace the generator short or an eroded (enlarged) fuel tip orifice or a crack where the threads begin on the generator body. As to replacing lantern generators... I'm lazy. Coleman designed the generator as a replaceable part for ...

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1975. They don't make them any more and haven't for a couple of decades.

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Pictures really are worth a thousand words.

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The valve bung for a 249 has the same thread pitch as a 220 lantern valve, a 242/200 valve doesn't even slap the sides. Sounds like a 249 to me. Pull the valve and check the bung size and if it's a straight pickup. The 249 valve also has a fat generator that uses the same size retaining nut as a 237.

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The 6 and 9 on either side of the logo are the date, September, 1926. If you're talking about the large bolt on the bottom of the tank, No, that doesn't come out. Minor crimps in a generator won't affect fuel flow, but they CAN cause cracks. If they're severe I'd replace them...

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Wow, you got it out and got a picture. Most of the time they come out in chunks. That picture's worth a thousand words!

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Be cautious with the heat to prevent the bung from de-soldering...

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<blockquote>Hot Diggity wrote: I'd post a picture, but can't figure out how to resize it. Apparently the ones on my phone are enormous. </blockquote> I use my iphone to mail them to myself, when it asks me what size to send them, I pick the one under 200K...

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Yes. This is sometimes called "amish mix".

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How well did you clean the bunsen? Another cause of rich burning is an obstuction in the air tube. If your bunsen has spider egg sace or other cruft in it, you can also get the nasty orange flames.

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To my knowledge they did not, as there was a contract for milspec lanterns until 1991, and all the branches used them. Canadian Forces often used COTS lanterns, but those were Canadian specific models. The quadrant rails fit standard 220 frames. I've got a couple 220's set up like that for...

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<blockquote>Chucker wrote: Did I just read..."air intake bracket"? I don't care if that was made up on the spot, I'm using it. Thanks Dennis.</blockquote> That's the actual Coleman verbiage from the exploded diagram from the 1920's IIRC. Here's the p...

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There's an intermediate fitting between the bung and the air intake bracket. Usually on these I usually just unscrew the entire burner assembly and it comes out with that piece. In your case, since you are missing the burner chamber, you're going to have to do something different. I'd...

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<blockquote>Cprendon wrote: The main difference I have found is that Crown doesn't have any corrosion inhibitor though Coleman supposedly does. Also from the manufacturer is the 6 month recommended shelf life where Coleman is 5 - 7 years. I asked Crown twice and they confirmed a ...

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Ash Flash/Roddy lantern like the others said. Made in Hong Kong, thus metric fasteners. Has a fair bit of AGM dna. The original "cheap Chinese knockoff".

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<blockquote>legendre wrote: How do you all remove the valve from the fount? I put the valve in the vice (soft jaws..) and cranked away on the fount, no luck. My arm strength is at a low point these days, but I'm a tall guy with big hands and a lot of mech. advantage - still wouldn't...

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<blockquote>mikew wrote: Correct me if I'm wrong on this Greg, but doesn't one end of the burner tube have more threads than the other? I'm thinking the end with the least threads goes into the mixing chamber and the end with the most threads holds the burner cap. <...

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It never hurts to pull the valve on 200 or 242 lanterns. They're so easy to disassemble.

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StanDahl wrote: $4 - $8, depending on the mood of the lady at the table on the way out of the estate sale. Half off on Sunday.

Don't get his hopes up. I usually get them for $2, but then I shop in sundays.

The Coleman Collectors ForumThe best information regarding Coleman stoves, lanterns and other gas pressured appliances!

Uncle Sidney ~ Prison Philosopher Says: "I know people who believe everything is pre-destined, yet they still look both ways before crossing a street!"

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The Coleman Collectors Forum
The best information regarding Coleman stoves, lanterns and other gas pressured appliances!

Uncle Sidney ~ Prison Philosopher Says:
"I know people who believe everything is pre-destined, yet they still look both ways before crossing a street!"