The Coleman Collectors Forum
The best information regarding Coleman stoves, lanterns and other gas pressured appliances!

iceiceguy

Thanks all and Steve, i"m glad that one has been a keeper! I think I recall you sent pictures post clean-up and it turned out really nice.

Thanks!

iceiceguy

Thanks! I guess I've always thought of them as having external pumps but I guess not!

iceiceguy

Spotted this lantern and am trying to ID it. I would guess 220B given the screw-in pump but the filler cap and valve wheel have me thrown off..... ?? <a href="http://i1121.photobucket.com/albums/l517/iceiceguy/220B_2.jpg" rel="lightbox" target="_blank"><img alt="[220B_2]" src="http://i1121.pho...

iceiceguy

Thanks all! Gives me a project for the week.

iceiceguy

Thanks Dan. I'll look for the two "fuel friendly" versions. Appreciate all the intel!

Dan

iceiceguy

Thanks for all the great suggestions! I've got a great local hardware store so I'll start there. Thanks all!

Dan

iceiceguy

Thanks much. I"ll have to resort to Google for that one. Would love to salvage it if I can. Thanks Dan!

iceiceguy

Hello all: Have a Peak 1 bottle that needs a "gasket". Does anyone know if those are available or is this a "disposable" bottle that I should just pitch? <img align="absmiddle" src="https://cdn.websitetoolbox.com/images/boards/smilies/frown.gif" alt="[frown]" border="0" /> Thanks! <b...

iceiceguy

About a year ago I was in Cleveland on a business trip and connected with Fred. He invited me out to his house and took me in like we had known each other for years. This was the 1st time I had met him. He gave me a tour of his collection. WOW is all I can say about his collection. Then he showed me...

iceiceguy

whoa.....I've not seen one like that before. Does that center piece in your pictures screw in to the outer F/A sleeve or does it just slide in? I'm trying to figure out what purpose it would have. The fuel comes in via the orifice at the bottom of the F/A tube and the thin brass rod either opens ...

iceiceguy

Huh.....Good idea on swapping gennies. If that doesn't do it and you are confident the burner tubes/mixing chamber and air tube are clear, I would then look at swapping valves/FA tube. 220 valves are a dime a dozen and that might be a cheap, easy solution to the problem or at least will help you nai...

iceiceguy

I was afraid you were going to say that.....the most difficult of the options....

iceiceguy

I have what I believe to be an October, 1940 243A (stamped "0 0" on the bottom). I'm trying to accurately restore it and just wondering which globe would be correct for it. I'm thinking pyrex; either just the plain straight side globe or possibly etched? Any advice is appreciated.

Dan

iceiceguy

shoot/post a pic of the F/A tube if you get a chance.

iceiceguy

X2 on the bung....doesn't look good. Those BX/C founts are notoriously thin. Probably want to start there. If it is a steel fount, should be repairable with a welder I would guess.

iceiceguy

Steve: Is it just the lever assembly that is from a stove or is it the tip cleaner body too? I'm just trying to figure out how much of the assembly is from a stove.

iceiceguy

ahh. Thanks Steve!

iceiceguy

Got a weird one and I'm sure there is probably an easy explanation. I have a 228D that the eccentric block and tip cleaner lever seem to be out of sync on. When I turn the tip cleaner lever up, it moves the block down. When I turn it down, it moves the tip up. So, when the lantern is running, the ti...

iceiceguy

Has anybody found a good replacement screw for square stem valves? I'm talking the screw that goes through the direction disk/wheel and holds the valve wheel on the stem. I'm just wondering if it is something I can get in a hardware store or maybe something Mike or Enoch sell? Help......

iceiceguy

Here's the link to Bill's site: http://www.gaspressuredecalsandlabels.com/index.html

iceiceguy

Freezy: That should be all you need for the 200a conversion. I have heard that because of the "multi-piece" burner assembly on the 200a, they tend to run a little stinky on kero and that the 242 is a better conversion candidate, but try it out and see what you think!

iceiceguy

I would chalk it up to a vent that took heat "differently" than other vents. I would guess not all porcelain was created equal and some is probably more prone to discoloration based on something that occurred during the manufacturing process. That is what it looks like to me if the vent looks like t...

iceiceguy

Bob: To remove the tip cleaning lever, you loosen the outer nut and then what?

iceiceguy

Yeah...I would not pull against it while it is still in the lantern. If you mess up the CV seat in the lantern, you will have much bigger issues. At least the CV is cheap and easy to replace if you do mess it up.

iceiceguy

OK. Here is 1 suggestion; remove the leather from the pump. Then, pull the check valve out of the lantern (assuming you have a check valve removal tool). Once you have the CV out, screw the stem back into it. Using the jaws of a vice, close the jaws enough to catch the "top" of the check valve. I...

iceiceguy

Ed: So, I'm assuming you have removed the stem from the check valve; in other words did the stem unscrew from the check valve?

iceiceguy

Steve: I understand what you are saying but I'm not sure what you mean by "fuel inlet hole". Are you talking the filler cap hole or are you talking about the valve? Since the filler cap hole is so small on the 242, I could see using a rubber tip on your compressor and that would probably block the e...

iceiceguy

Nice work! Another vote for Mother's polish. That stuff is fantastic.

iceiceguy

Ed: Nice find on the 228D! That is an awesome lantern and you are going to love that thing when you get it back up and running. Just my opinion, but I'm not a big fan of steel wool (even 0000) on nickel. My personal opinion is that it leaves very small scratches which causes the fount to tarnish fas...

iceiceguy

You ever have lanterns you just need to walk away from sometimes? This one is one of those for me. Got the burner bottom plate off which allowed me to get the frame rest off so that was good. Got the pump apart and lubed and that works pretty well. Put some fuel in it and no stress cracks so that is...

iceiceguy

Thanks guys! I really appreciate the help here. Based on what I read above, I think I'll leave the valve alone unless I can't get it to pass fuel. I'll see if I can get that plate off (burner floor). Thanks much and I'll keep you posted.

Dan

iceiceguy

I'm hoping someone here might have some experience with these. I'm trying to do 2 things; first trying to get the frame rest off so I can remove the valve from the fount and clean the F/A tube. Second, trying to service the pump. On the frame rest, I can't seem to get it off and the primary issue is...

iceiceguy

I find myself putting rags under them wherever I go. Your method looks more convenient. Let us know how it holds up as the fount heats up, etc. Thanks for sharing the idea!

iceiceguy

Kyle: Are you saying you tie a mantel on and then open the valve and burn the mantel in that way? I've never tried that if that is what you are describing....?

iceiceguy

<img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v300/Murff/Emoticons/hijacked.gif" alt="" align="absMiddle" border="0" /> I took this pic a week or so ago when I was at my local farm supply store. This is a chicken feeder and has a "fount"..... <img src="http://i1121.photobucket.com/albu...

iceiceguy

I used a little simichrome on it and it cleaned right up! Turns out it was just tarnish, not varnish. I've never seen a brass disk before and they really look great on the lantern, especially in contrast to the nickel fount. I'm in the process of cleaning this lantern before re-assembly but you can ...

iceiceguy

Now that I've been looking at this a little closer, I'm not sure if I'm dealing with varnish or if the brass just needs a polish. I'll try some brasso (since I have some handy) on the non-painted part and see if it polishes up. I'll keep you posted.

iceiceguy

Thanks guys; I appreciate the help here. Jerry, this is a July, 1930 220B so what you said about the brass coming on the 1930 models only holds true for this one too. Now I just have to decide if I run glass or mica in it. I was talking with Kehoe earlier today and it sounds like the lantern origina...

iceiceguy

Hi all. I'm right in the midst of restoring an old 220B. The directions disk is brass and it is varnished. I'm trying to clean it without losing any of the printing and am not having any luck. I've been using CLR bathroom cleaner and rubbing it with my fingers but that doesn't seem to touch it. A...

iceiceguy

Anybody know when Coleman stopped using mica globes?

iceiceguy

Ok. Now to reassembly. Your first step is to put the cleaned screen back on the cleaned F/A tube (carefully). Now, screw the threaded end of the F/A tube back into the valve body. Once you have that back in, you are ready to put the valve body back into the fount. Drop it in and finger tighten it. U...

iceiceguy

Ok here we go. I'm sure I'll leave out some important details but if there is anything you have questions on, let me know. Here is our victim, I mean lantern: <img src="http://i1121.photobucket.com/albums/l517/iceiceguy/IMG-20120712-00322.jpg" alt="" /> Of course, with th...

iceiceguy

Thought I would pose this question. Tonight I will be tearing apart my Kamplite inverted (for about the 3rd time this week) and putting it back together. Would it make sense for me to take some pics and describe the process? I checked and didn't see the instructions posted anywhere but thought I'd c...

iceiceguy

Most lanterns of that age have brass air tubes so you wouldn't have any flaking, paint, etc involved. I'm not 100% clear on your opposition to dis-assembly. If you really want to understand lanterns and how they function, etc. the best thing you can do is disassemble and reassemble a few lanterns...

iceiceguy

Back away from the lantern with the drill. Drop the drill and no one will get hurt.

iceiceguy

I can't speak to the ash flash (never owned one) but on the 220, I would remove the burner assembly from the lantern and run some compressed air through it. As long as you have it that far apart, I would also consider pulling the valve and cleaning the F/A tube. There are some great instructions on ...

iceiceguy

+2 for Ed. Every lantern I work on gets the valve pulled (unless it is running like a champ as is). The more you do it, the easier it gets and it is worth it to me to avoid the problem of poor fuel flow. I use a bench vise to pull the valve and it makes it very easy (on most lanterns).

iceiceguy

Normally that is a sign of not enough air getting into the burner. What model lantern is it? Have you blown out the air intake tube(s)? It doesn't take much debris in the air tube to cause a poor burn. Spiders love air tubes and that is the most common issue of what you are describing. But a few mor...

iceiceguy

That "F/A" tube is not removable from the valve is it? I have been working on mine and it doesn't appear that I can remove the tube, but wanted to confirm that. It would be much easier to clean if I could remove it....

iceiceguy

A good piece of leather is also a good tool to help protect the cap/fount from the pliers.

The Coleman Collectors ForumThe best information regarding Coleman stoves, lanterns and other gas pressured appliances!

Uncle Sidney ~ Prison Philosopher Says: "5 by 5 Rule: If it won't matter in five years, don't spend 5 minutes worrying about it!"

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The Coleman Collectors Forum
The best information regarding Coleman stoves, lanterns and other gas pressured appliances!

Uncle Sidney ~ Prison Philosopher Says:
"5 by 5 Rule: If it won't matter in five years, don't spend 5 minutes worrying about it!"