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If it’s leaking at the knob end you should be able to repair the leak with some graphite. You should not have to completely disassemble the generator.

if it’s any help I found my #5 with a #4 generator in it; fits and works just fine.

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Yes, 30 psi is way overkill for the early models but not for the f/a tube models that we are all familiar with. My statement was to the ability of the mantle, not the lamp. I have several of these tester mantles, I've only burned one and it didn't shape up like I thought it should; I'l...

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<blockquote>Gunhippie wrote: John--at 14.7 psi/bar, wouldn't that be 19.4 psi/2 bar?.</blockquote> Hello Timm, Bar is set, ohh that's bad; at 14.50 psi, so 2 bar would be 29 psi give or take a little, as most Coleman products I'm familiar with run at around 30 ps...

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I wouldn't worry too much about blowing these mantles out, they are designed to run at 2 Bar, or 29.0075 psi.

I've always assumed that these would be too big to run on a 300cp lamp. There is a slightly smaller 300 cp variant of this mantle that I run on my thermos inverted.

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Hello Alex, I have two examples of the Workhorse lantern here and both of them have a cap slightly larger than the regular Petromax style cap. I was able to get the Workhorse caps to fit each lantern so they are threaded the same, or at least close enough; but the corresponding cap woul...

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I would think a solid brass carriage bolt type fastener, tinned and inserted from the outside with a nut on the inside. Fill the tank with water and turn it to where the inserted bolt is up and dry then heat the bolt head while snugging it up. The upright mount and pressure tit should both be submer...

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Hello Rob, That is a great project; it takes the standard 164X mantle. I notice in your pictures that the steel ring from a 164H "Happy" mantle is still on the burner; the ring isn't reusable so you can remove it. The regular two tie mantle will tie in the groove just above the multiple h...

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An incomplete Aida 233, I'd like to see some pictures of what you have <img class="emoticon bbc_img" alt="[sHa_yes2]" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v300/Murff/Emoticons/sHa_yes2.gif" title="Yes! - :yes:" /> It's listed as a 200cp lamp so make sure your replacement parts are scale...

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Welcome Yuuzou,

That is quite an accomplishment, the finished product looks great.

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Yes, the remnants on the bleeder screw do look like the same wrinkle finish to the naked eye, micro photography with a digital camera under electric lights just didn't work out for me last night.

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Yea, that's right, the odd looking double tube. Thanks for pointing that out Steve. That's the first time I've seen one of those.
It's a runner for sure, I think the lamp bug has bitten me again.

hiddenhider

Thanks for the info guys, I was hoping it was original. The last slant lamp I had was an air hog and took forever to settle down and burn, this one lit almost as fast as a F/A tube model. With the old mantles, they were tied on already and I did have to test it <img src="//cdn...

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Evening folks, I found this slant lamp last month, figured I'd throw $20 at it. It's a later model with the barrel style pickup tube. From the look of those mantles it's been sitting somewhere for a looong time. The shade holder stud is missing, which I consider much better tha...

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The CL2 uses a new style valve, turn the knob and the eccentric block will rise out allowing removal of the generator pricker. I'm afraid i do not know enough about these newer ones to diagnose the problem but I believe they use a different style of fuel pickup tube; it will become appare...

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Now that is interesting to say the least. Those two burners keep the generator heated during operation, the marks on the manifold attest to that. Does anyone know how the valve on it affects the burners? Thanks, John <blockquote>jcbcodywy wrote:...

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Here you go Rob.

That line in the knurled cap is the split between the upper and lower parts that jeepfreek is talking about.

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Wow, that one is in great shape; boy am I jealous. Be careful with the radiants as they are costly to replace. I'm not familiar with this particular model but it resembles my #5. It does take an external pump, the same one the lanterns and lamps use; the cap gasket is the same ...

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Welcome Chick,

If you can post a pic of your lamp I'm sure we can come up with the missing parts. Coleman used a lot of the same parts on numerous products and there are spares in drawers everywhere.

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Hi Ed, The 200A burner is larger and flatter than the 220 style, when removing the burner from the burner tube the screen is easily popped out. Something about years and years of being confined in the same position reduces their "spring" so they tend to fall out easier when reinstalled.<b...

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Of all the old lanterns I've come across that you could blow the dust off of and light with the fuel in them, they all had the valve closed so I see no harm there.

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Awesome lamp Chris

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Very nice find.

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Sounds like someone combined a few and made a frankie stove. I'll have to pull my 425 down but I think it's got the tube between the burners instead of the coleman marked bar.

hiddenhider

Sounds a little earlier than a 425, were the legs round or flat steel?

Most cast iron burners end up coming home with me.

hiddenhider

Thanks for posting. I've got one of each that I've got to get too someday, they aren't that much of a mystery anymore.

hiddenhider

That air gap is important, if I recall correctly it needs to be right at 1/2 inch. My two Aida's have a dimple in the air tube that presets the gap.

These things love heat, if in doubt preheat it some more.

hiddenhider

Welcome Griff. If they both pressurize then your good on the check valve. Disregard the ezy-out section of the rebuild, there's a tool that removes and replaces it now in one piece. If you aren't getting fuel from the valve with the generator removed then the fuel/air tube is p...

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The way I understand it these gauges have a hollow spring in them. I imagine they can be repaired if not working but you'll really need to know what you are doing.

You have a PM.

hiddenhider

Basically all kerosene lanterns or lamps are torch light. You really have to preheat it in order to get a vapor that will burn clean. The same thing happens with CF just at a lower temperature and most CF devices mix air with the fuel in the generator so it preheats faster anyway. The big...

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Hi Ed,

Sorry but that's a one piece unit.

If you put the needle back in and push it down on a hard surface you should feel the tip come through just enough to be noticeable.

I've been tempted to try a sonic cleaning on one but haven't gotten to it yet.

hiddenhider

Hi Ed, Go ahead and pull that puppy apart. Replacing the seals is a simple and probably needed operation. For testing purposes; In a pinch a good quality viton o-ring can be used in place of the two seals, one below the valve and one for the vaporizer; until the correct seals show up.<br ...

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<blockquote>danduhman wrote: I see a mushroom cloud in your future John ,i m bringing my M-2 to the October meeting</blockquote> Bring it on Dan, I'll bring the fuel. Skip, We'll be looking for pics, flame pics that is. <img src="http://img.photobucket.com...

hiddenhider

Thank y'all for yer opinions on some of that there grammer. let's all just get along and remember what this thread is all about. Look closely at the picture posted at the top of this page and you'll all remember that we can all use some some of the newby luck like our friend Mr. Hodges is...

hiddenhider

Yep, seem to hear about one of these once or twice. I ain't afraid to light nothing so post a few pics and let's see if we can make a fire.

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If it doesn't light up and burn right away, and you are sure of the fuel in it then I always check the air tube and burner tubes for spiders or dirt dobber nest first. It's the simple things sometimes.

hiddenhider

Yea, like Weasel said it's probably the f/a spring, sure was hoping you wouldn't have to go back into the fount.

hiddenhider

Welcome to the forum.

I can't hear the lantern running but it's hunting a little bit, if you have another 220 or 228 try swapping the generators and see if that helps.

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That's the good thing about these lanterns, the preheat cup is mounted on the vaporizer so that you don't have to find it whenever you want to light it. Fill it with denatured alcohol until the cup fills with fluid, light and wait, it'll burn for a while but the wait is better than the smokey globe ...

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One thing to remember, Tilley and the Vapalux/Bialladin lanterns are very similar. But the vaporizers have are threaded different and are not interchangeable.

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You can adapt a 21A to work, I've done it a few times myself. The correct mantle is rounder, almost bell shaped so it will put out a we bit more light with them. Here's a couple of pages that will help you out, you'll be used to it in no time. Base Camp - <a href="http://www.ba...

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The Bialaddin 300X is a pretty nice 300cp lantern, easy to work on and not much to go wrong. A complete seal kit can be had for around $14 shipped and depending on the year everything less the vent is brass. Disassembly is simple and they are good little runners.

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Hi Duane, Welcome to the forum. <a href="http://www.oldcolemanparts.com/resources/re_2lant.php">Two mantle</a> There's the link to the two mantle disassembly that this site hosts, lot's of other good stuff there too. The CV removal is outdated, we have a tool now th...

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"B" ingo

Nice looking lantern.

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"Keep in mind that there is a soldered/brazed joint all around the top edge that you do not want to compromise. " <blockquote>dbosch wrote: The HGP fount is welded. The valve, gauge bungs and filler necks are brazed. You can braze the bung without worrying about the foun...

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It would have been inserted and soldered from the inside. My vote is for brazing also, just be careful of other connections close that may overheat.

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Mothers works great, you may want to soak it for a few minutes in a citric acid mixture for a few moments to soften the coating, it makes it easier to polish away.

Be careful of polishing too hard, brass loves to come poking through.

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Weasel is right, if you can braze it that will be a lot stronger. Keep in mind that there is a soldered/brazed joint all around the top edge that you do not want to compromise.

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Hi Warren, Looks like the threaded bung is broken loose from the fount, it's a fairly common problem. In my opinion solder is the only way to fix this. If air will find that crack then fuel will too and when your talking about the sheer volume used here it's sure as heck better...

hiddenhider

You might try swapping the generator from your working 200A to this 202. If it's a new generator then there is a chance it could be defective. It sure wouldn't be the first time.

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Check out this <a href="http://www.oldcolemanparts.com/resources/re_2lant_a.php">linky</a> it covers everything you'll need. Disregard the part about the easyout to remove the check valve, there is a tool for that now. To remove the valve I put the nut for the generator back on and chuck ...

The Coleman Collectors ForumThe best information regarding Coleman stoves, lanterns and other gas pressured appliances!

Uncle Sidney ~ Prison Philosopher Says: "5 by 5 Rule: If it won't matter in five years, don't spend 5 minutes worrying about it!"

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The Coleman Collectors Forum
The best information regarding Coleman stoves, lanterns and other gas pressured appliances!

Uncle Sidney ~ Prison Philosopher Says:
"5 by 5 Rule: If it won't matter in five years, don't spend 5 minutes worrying about it!"