228E tip cleaner

[BjornBee]

The tip cleaner assembly on a 228E is frozen.
I removed it to make sure it was not somehow jammed in the block mechanism.
I've tried to research the problem in the archives, but over 8400 replies come up with tip cleaner problems
Many talk about removing the packing, the damage that occurs in doing so, etc.

So my questions are simple...
1) Are all tip cleaners built with graphite?
And beyond removing the packing, what else can be done to hopefully free it?
Heat. soaking, other? Anything PRIOR to tearing out packing of which I have no experience.
Thank you

[Tgarner01]

I'm assuming you're talking about a 228E? If so I use heat... Sometimes it takes a good amount, also loosening the packing nut can help. Check for leaks before you light it up again.

[BjornBee]

I'm assuming you're talking about a 228E? If so I use heat... Sometimes it takes a good amount, also loosening the packing nut can help. Check for leaks before you light it up again.

Yes....228E. Too early this morning......
If you loosen the packing nut, and use heat, is there any "leakage" possible?

Thank you.

[Tgarner01]

I'm assuming you're talking about a 228E? If so I use heat... Sometimes it takes a good amount, also loosening the packing nut can help. Check for leaks before you light it up again.

Yes....228E. Too early this morning......
If you loosen the packing nut, and use heat, is there any "leakage" possible?

Thank you.

Not a leakage of packing, but possible fuel leak when reassembled, not a big deal just give the packing nut slight tightening increments until leak stops...

[TwoCanoes]

Haven't had any so far that wouldn't free up with heat. I make sure the lantern is fuel free inside and out, then put a torch to the assembly, heating just a little, twist the lever with pliars, heat a little more, twist again. I twist hard enough that the wire is just beginning to feel like it will bend.

[BjornBee]

Haven't had any so far that wouldn't free up with heat. I make sure the lantern is fuel free inside and out, then put a torch to the assembly, heating just a little, twist the lever with pliars, heat a little more, twist again. I twist hard enough that the wire is just beginning to feel like it will bend.

Question..If you need to heat to free the needle assembly...and I do....is it the packing just getting hard?
Are you just going to have additional problems again?
After you use heat and free it...anything else you can do?
Thank you.

[TwoCanoes]

Haven't had any additional problems so far. Bear in mind, I've only been doing this for a couple of years. I'm not sure what causes a stuck assembly but I suspect it's gunk around the eccentric block. Maybe someone else knows . . .

[zoomkat]

Be careful when working with a frozen cleaner lever. The cleaning lever was frozen on my dad's 220E and while attempting to free it up, I bent the internal eccentric tip. I took the assembly out, loosened the packing nut and heated the packing area. The lever freeded up while being heated and rotated. Note that some of the packing "popped" out during the process. It was put back in and there was no resulting leakage from that situation.

[BjornBee]

Haven't had any so far that wouldn't free up with heat. I make sure the lantern is fuel free inside and out, then put a torch to the assembly, heating just a little, twist the lever with pliars, heat a little more, twist again. I twist hard enough that the wire is just beginning to feel like it will bend.

I'm assuming you do all this after the needle assembly has been removed?
Have you ever heated it while still installed on the valve assembly?
Is there any concerns with anything else being heated and damaged?
I'm think these are lanterns and built for heat. But perhaps best to remove needle assembly first?
Thank you.

[Tgarner01]

Haven't had any so far that wouldn't free up with heat. I make sure the lantern is fuel free inside and out, then put a torch to the assembly, heating just a little, twist the lever with pliars, heat a little more, twist again. I twist hard enough that the wire is just beginning to feel like it will bend.

I'm assuming you do all this after the needle assembly has been removed?
Have you ever heated it while still installed on the valve assembly?
Is there any concerns with anything else being heated and damaged?
I'm think these are lanterns and built for heat. But perhaps best to remove needle assembly first?
Thank you.

I always heat mine on the lantern, same with the valve stem packing when they stick.

[BjornBee]

Haven't had any so far that wouldn't free up with heat. I make sure the lantern is fuel free inside and out, then put a torch to the assembly, heating just a little, twist the lever with pliars, heat a little more, twist again. I twist hard enough that the wire is just beginning to feel like it will bend.

I'm assuming you do all this after the needle assembly has been removed?
Have you ever heated it while still installed on the valve assembly?
Is there any concerns with anything else being heated and damaged?
I'm think these are lanterns and built for heat. But perhaps best to remove needle assembly first?
Thank you.

I always heat mine on the lantern, same with the valve stem packing when they stick.

Thank you.

[Gavercronos]

One other thing to keep in mind is whether it's brass or steel. If the latter it absolutely will seize up again in a month or so unless you use it regularly.

[MYN927]

You need not remove the needle assembly or eccentric block while doing it. Depending on whether the tip cleaner is stuck at the bottom or top position, you might or might not be able to remove the needle assembly at all until you get the lever freely moving.
Just follow the advice as others suggested earlier.