228H red flakes in fuel

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hikerduane
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228H red flakes in fuel

#1

Post by hikerduane »

Sounds like the inside coating is breaking loose big time. Suggestion, keep doing the BB shake and add some small nuts, or leave alone. To prevent flakes from clogging the F/A tube, could put a small sock over the tip. I think POR 15 is drastic.
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228H red flakes in fuel

#2

Post by Phredd »

Agree with flaking theory. I had one like this and after my third bb dance i put lye in the tank, let it sit overnight, and it dissolved all the coating.

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228H red flakes in fuel

#3

Post by Gunhippie »

You can leave the CV in place. I remove mine and clean them with lye followed by a weak acid.
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228H red flakes in fuel

#4

Post by zoomkat »

"Can anyone please instruct me on what to do next?"

Not being one to noodle around a lot, I'd empty out the fuel, take the lantern outside, put the fuel port in the down bottom position, the blast out the inside of the tank with a strong garden hose nozzle for a while, strongly shaking and sloshing the contents a couple of times. Empty the water out and add new fuel, and fire it up.
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228H red flakes in fuel

#5

Post by Phredd »

If you leave the check valve in place:

First clean the tank of all the lye (i flush with lots of water - dry it with compressed air - then rinse with ethanol - then rinse with CF).

Then I then squirt some carb cleaner directly into the check valve, let it sit for 5 min, then pump it through (you can use the the pump without the stem). Then I add about 10 ml ounce of CF and pump that through. And repeat. I do this to clean out both the check valve and the air tube.

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228H red flakes in fuel

#6

Post by hikerduane »

Drip some on your wrist, will know very quick.
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228H red flakes in fuel

#7

Post by HercL4D2 »

Coleman used red, light grey and brown Epoxy paint inside the fuel tanks. This was applied with an electrically charged part and a negative charged paint. Lye to remove the paint?. I have never tried it. After flushing the tank I had best results cleaning out the small flakes using dish soap in the tank and a steady stream of hot water entering the top of the tank with the kitchen sink leaving the fuel filler cap off. BB's were to much of a pain trying to get out. Pressurized water from a garden hose with a pressure tip and dish soap works well also. Denatured Alcohol to rinse the tank out of water and let sit in the sun or a warm place. Paper towels rolled tight and fitted into the fuel port to bottom of tank to wick out the excess. Repaint inside with a mist Epoxy. I made a brass cap that fit over the plastic straw and glued on with tiny drill bits to make a misting nozzle. Trial and error with a misting nozzle and paint warmed in a pot of very warm water.
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228H red flakes in fuel

#8

Post by Phredd »

In a couple founts i was unable to use water to get it all off. A borescope showed patches that resisted water treatment, but would flake off slowly with CF. So i just use lye now.

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228H red flakes in fuel

#9

Post by Phredd »

And HercL4D2

I am in awe of you ability to re-coat tanks.

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228H red flakes in fuel

#10

Post by hikerduane »

No. May rust lightly if moisture left in it each season. Some/many things read about here are by accomplished handy men for the rest of is to admire.
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228H red flakes in fuel

#11

Post by hikerduane »

The pricker/cleaning lever is only moved up to clear obstructions. Down is normal operating position.
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228H red flakes in fuel

#12

Post by Rhubarb »

http://www.oldtowncoleman.com/manuals/220H.pdf

How to use and enjoy your 228H.
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228H red flakes in fuel

#13

Post by Phredd »

Agree with above. The cleaning lever is always supposed to be the down position when running. And it's not supposed to be used to regulate the light output. These things are either all on, or all off.

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228H red flakes in fuel

#14

Post by zoomkat »

"I have to run with the cleaning value at half way up position. If I put fully up the mantle stop glowing."

I think the cleaning levers are made of brass and can become twisted if the lever packing becomes too tight. This happened on my dad's 11/55 220E and probably was why he retired it in the early 70s. The lantern is now running good but the lever still has a ~30 degree twist. A cleaning lever that is functioning properly should significantly dim the lantern when it is turned and the pricker fills the generator orifice. Using the cleaning lever is the way to lower the output when desired of the older lantern. Same principle used in the current "adjustable" lanterns.
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228H red flakes in fuel

#15

Post by Phredd »

I thought using the pricker to control output caused soot build-up faster?

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228H red flakes in fuel

#16

Post by zoomkat »

"I thought using the pricker to control output caused soot build-up faster?"

What makes you think that and where does the soot build up? Just curious.
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228H red flakes in fuel

#17

Post by Phredd »

In the generator? Hey, I'm a bit of a novice here - sorry if I'm off base.

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228H red flakes in fuel

#18

Post by zoomkat »

"In the generator? Hey, I'm a bit of a novice here - sorry if I'm off base."

Generators get clogged up over time from byproducts in the fuel that don't vaporize with the fuel or breakdown with the heat. I haven't heard (so far) of generator soot/clogging issues coming from throttling the output with the pricker.
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228H red flakes in fuel

#19

Post by Phredd »

Thanks.

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228H red flakes in fuel

#20

Post by Rhubarb »

[QUOTE username=rcockrill userid=5959215 postid=1310004530]Okefenokee
Bless you!
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Re: 228H red flakes in fuel

#21

Post by ecblanks »

I've got a 200A and a 290A that both need peeled lining removed. I hate putting water products in my founts so I may try just knocking most of it loose with bb's and kerosene. I'm not so concerned about getting it all out, just the delaminated stuff.
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Re: 228H red flakes in fuel

#22

Post by Ridge Runner »

ecblanks wrote: Wed Apr 07, 2021 3:40 pm I've got a 200A and a 290A that both need peeled lining removed. I hate putting water products in my founts so I may try just knocking most of it loose with bb's and kerosene. I'm not so concerned about getting it all out, just the delaminated stuff.
Carlton, denatured alcohol will remove the brown fount liner. Give it a good long soak--a BB dance will help speed up the process too.
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Re: 228H red flakes in fuel

#23

Post by ecblanks »

Ridge Runner wrote: Wed Apr 07, 2021 4:30 pm
ecblanks wrote: Wed Apr 07, 2021 3:40 pm I've got a 200A and a 290A that both need peeled lining removed. I hate putting water products in my founts so I may try just knocking most of it loose with bb's and kerosene. I'm not so concerned about getting it all out, just the delaminated stuff.
Carlton, denatured alcohol will remove the brown fount liner. Give it a good long soak--a BB dance will help speed up the process too.
That's an even better plan. Thanks!
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Re: 228H red flakes in fuel

#24

Post by Ridge Runner »

ecblanks wrote: Wed Apr 07, 2021 4:47 pm
Ridge Runner wrote: Wed Apr 07, 2021 4:30 pm
ecblanks wrote: Wed Apr 07, 2021 3:40 pm I've got a 200A and a 290A that both need peeled lining removed. I hate putting water products in my founts so I may try just knocking most of it loose with bb's and kerosene. I'm not so concerned about getting it all out, just the delaminated stuff.
Carlton, denatured alcohol will remove the brown fount liner. Give it a good long soak--a BB dance will help speed up the process too.
That's an even better plan. Thanks!
No prob. I've done a few that way with good results.

Should've also mentioned--I filter the gunk through a paper towel and put the DNA back in the fount to continue soaking/dancing. You'll get a good idea as to when enough-is-enough once the brown crud stops coming out of the fount.
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I love the smell of naphtha in the morning!
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