Generator springs.

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Ohiohunter83
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Generator springs.

#1

Post by Ohiohunter83 »

Does there happen to be a source for 220 and 200 sized generator springs? I have lots of old generators but more often than not I have destroyed the springs trying to get the tough ones apart. I haven't had much luck with the heat and quench but maybe I'm not getting them hot enough. I was going to put up a want to buy in the classifieds but figured everyone has the same issue. If anyone has a source for the springs or a surplus of them let me know and I would be happy to purchase them. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks Drew
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Tgarner01
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#2

Post by Tgarner01 »

I've had the best luck doing the heat n quench then pushing through the top with a stiff wire instead of pulling them. Sometimes I get in to big of a hurry and crunch them a little, but they're usually easy enough to straiten out.. I don't know of a source for just the springs, but I've seen the tube and spring on OCP in the past.
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Ohiohunter83
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#3

Post by Ohiohunter83 »

I would be happy if I could get the tubes nd springs but all I've ever seen on OCP are the tubes.
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#4

Post by Tgarner01 »

Yeah I checked, don't see them any more. In the past I have made my own generator guts using brass wool. I just wrap it around the pricker making sure it's centered. They always work great.. If not a little better than the original.
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#5

Post by zoomkat »

Worst case, you could probably make a replacement spring out of similar sized copper wire. It would take some fiddling but probably keep a lantern operating. I looked yesterday at Academy Sports and they still have the 220/228/275 replacement generators for ~$8.
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#6

Post by Ohiohunter83 »

I have made packings for kamplites that have super hard to find generators with excellent results but just a little more time consuming than sliding in a new spring and tube.
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#7

Post by JLo »

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#8

Post by JimL »

Keep in mind that the purpose of the spring is to keep the tip cleaning rod centered so the tip cleaning wire (pricker) doesn't get bent hitting the side. Like Toby, I use bronze wool to rebuild generators, keeping the rod centered. In the case of the 200 or 242, when you go to install it, you can take an added precaution by removing the frame, and then remove the generator tip before installing the generator. Next, install the generator, turn the tip cleaning lever to up so it protrudes from the generator, and then install the tip. This way, you're guaranteed the wire is going through the orifice. Once the generator tip is installed, you can go ahead and turn the lever back down and you'll be all set.
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#9

Post by Hot_Diggity »

copper coil.jpg
Coiled copper wire works great in all my kerosene conversions. Would likely work in a CF application as well.
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#10

Post by Mister_Wilson »

I have a couple of used ones I can send your way.
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#11

Post by Chucker »

Coiled brass wire or bronze wool are my go to's. I haven't had to do one in a couple years though.

Brass wire won't get that burnt coating like copper and holds up well to heating with a propane torch and quenching when it needs cleaning. Bronze wool can just be tossed.
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#12

Post by zoomkat »

"I have lots of old generators but more often than not I have destroyed the springs trying to get the tough ones apart."

What is left of the springs you have removed? Since the "springs" don't actually perform a "spring" function (they guide the pricker rod and act as heat transfer coils), you may still be able to get them to work, maybe better than a DIY coil setup.
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#13

Post by Chucker »

BTW, using brass mesh or 'screen' can also work well.

IIRC, I used #30 mesh last time. Roll up around 3/4 in. x 1 1/2 long around the pricker.
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#14

Post by Northman49 »

Original springs are made of steel. I have no problem making workable replacements using steel wire.
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#15

Post by Smudge »

I make coils using .020" brass wire. I put a coat hanger wire, same diameter as the pricker, in a hand drill. Then stick one end of the brass wire in the drill chuck, slowly run the drill while holding the brass wire against the coat hanger wire and winding the coil. Cut to length when done.
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#16

Post by Northman49 »

[QUOTE username=Smudge userid=4744050 postid=1319449018]I make coils using .020" brass wire. I put a coat hanger wire, same diameter as the pricker, in a hand drill. Then stick one end of the brass wire in the drill chuck, slowly run the drill while holding the brass wire against the coat hanger wire and winding the coil. Cut to length when done. Ok, but do you make the enlarged portion that keeps the rod centered? You will notice that there is a bulged portion on the top end of the spring, this is needed to center the rod as the hook end is already centered.
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#17

Post by brucesheehe »

Never throw away an old generator - you can always use them for spare parts.
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#18

Post by Smudge »

[QUOTE username=Northman49 userid=4065982 postid=1319449066]
Ok, but do you make the enlarged portion that keeps the rod centered? You will notice that there is a bulged portion on the top end of the spring, this is needed to center the rod as the hook end is already centered.I inserted the coat hanger wire in to an aluminum tube and epoxied it. I put the thick end in the drill. I trim the excess winding since I only need a couple of turns on larger diameter up at the top of the gen.
The coat hanger wire is .073" and the O.D. of the tube is .125" and the brass coil wire is .020"
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#19

Post by Northman49 »

Nice. Looks like we have the same idea but different methods.
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#20

Post by Smudge »

Interesting. I guess where there's a will, there's a way.
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#21

Post by stoves1234 »

Don't forget solder wick, which I learned from Timm (Gunhippie). Very easy to work with.
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#22

Post by Ohiohunter83 »

I appreciate the gesture John but I guess I will get creative and use the copper wire wrap. I just thought if there was possibly a place to purchase them i would. I kinda like to return them to the way they are supposed to be but purchasing new generators often is getting old. If they were users I definitely wouldn't mind using the wire wrap but if someday I decide to sell them I don't think I would want to sell one that looks like "Bubba" got a hold of it. Lol. As I stated I did do a copper wrap on a Kamplite scottsman single mantle that the generators are far and few between and it is an awesome runner. Thanks for all the ideas and suggestions everyone it is greatly appreciated. Thanks Drew
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#23

Post by Ohiohunter83 »

What size solder wick do I want to get?
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#24

Post by zoomkat »

"but if someday I decide to sell them I don't think I would want to sell one that looks like "Bubba" got a hold of it"

The best thing there is to see if you can get an OEM replacement generator if possible. The 220 Coleman generator internals seem to have specific functions that the internals perform, which may or may not be incorporated in the various DIY replacement internals. I'd save all the damaged springs and see if they can be refurbished back to functional use.
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#25

Post by Smudge »

[QUOTE username=Ohiohunter83 userid=6806515 postid=1319451765]What size solder wick do I want to get?All you need is what fits around the pricker wire in the gen tube. Don't worry, it's not rocket science.
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Re: Generator springs.

#26

Post by Pjterven »

Hot_Diggity wrote: Sat Sep 26, 2020 4:09 am Coiled copper wire works great in all my kerosene conversions. Would likely work in a CF application as well.
I know this is an old post but I am serching for the same info…. What is the gauge of wire you are using for the generator spring
Obsessed with the liquid fuel technology....I want them all
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Re: Generator springs.

#27

Post by Hot_Diggity »

Pjterven wrote: Sat Nov 20, 2021 2:31 am
Hot_Diggity wrote: Sat Sep 26, 2020 4:09 am Coiled copper wire works great in all my kerosene conversions. Would likely work in a CF application as well.
I know this is an old post but I am serching for the same info…. What is the gauge of wire you are using for the generator spring
I started with a larger wire than necessary, probably 8 gauge, and removed strands until I had a coil that would fit around the pricker and inside the generator.
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Re: Generator springs.

#28

Post by Gunhippie »

Amazon isn't playing nice tonight, or I'd give a link.

Image

That one still has the COIL, but this works equally well on a bare pricker rod. The product I use is Chem-Wick, IIRC, 2.5 mm wide by 50 feet long (love it when they do that). For that wrap--a 220 gen--12 inches works perfectly. Same without the coil.
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Re: Generator springs.

#29

Post by Phredd »

I'm assuming that the 220 springs were made by pushing the hot wire through a forming jig that changes the pitch etc to form a the longer smaller diameter at the bottom, then the larger diameter and then the smaller diameter at the top?

I got this idea by watching the intro to the show How It's Made
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Re: Generator springs.

#30

Post by Gunhippie »

[Rant] They are not springs! Springs are, like, springy. They are coils. [/rant]
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Re: Generator springs.

#31

Post by Ohiohunter83 »

Compress one between your fingers slightly. It'll spring back. 😉
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Re: Generator springs.

#32

Post by Phredd »

regardless of spring or coil. I still want to learn how they are made.

and I'll go with the coil argument. during use they just sit there and don't move.
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Re: Generator springs.

#33

Post by JimL »

>>regardless of spring or coil. I still want to learn how they are made.

Here ya go:
viewtopic.php?f=9&t=26881
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Re: Generator springs.

#34

Post by Phredd »

Thanks. That’s a great link for making coils that are the same diameter for the entire length. What I’m puzzled about is the 220 coil that has the bulge in it. I don’t think that can be made the same way?
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Re: Generator springs.

#35

Post by cptuap »

When I didn't have or want to take the time to coil copper wire or such, I just dropped a couple springs from old ball point pens in there and it worked fine. Both for a CF and a Kero conversion. Any old spring that fits seems to do the trick.
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Re: Generator springs.

#36

Post by JimL »

Kevin,

I thought that was the thread that Dean addressed making those springs with the bulge(not in the video), but didn't make any.
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Re: Generator springs.

#37

Post by zoomkat »

If one wanted to hand DIY a coil from soft copper, a simple wrapping form probably could be made from two appropriate sized dowels or similar. Drill a hole in the end of larger dowel in which a smaller dowel, or headless nail, will fit. Start wrapping on the large dowel and then down on the smaller shaft. When the small coil part is done, remove the coil form, turn it around and reinsert the small form into the small coil, then continue turning the coil on the large part of the form again.
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