How to FFR a Slant 220/228

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Gavercronos
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How to FFR a Slant 220/228

#1

Post by Gavercronos »

Since these are weird and not intuitive, and because people have been asking me about them, I've decided to put up my methods for dealing with them. This is not an in-depth thing; for instance I do not go into the pump at all, and I'm not detailing the cleaning of the nickel, frame, air tube, etc. Use all applicable methods from general FFR instructions in addition to this. And, if anyone has other things to point out, feel free to do so. That said, here we go!

Today's patient is a 8/5 L228 which was lacking a pickup orifice when I got it. I've been running it like a Quicklite and wanted to see how it would behave in instant-lighting configuration.
Image
Those are all the tools I need to take this down. I know some of you are cringing at the vise-grip, but I promise it's OK. No harm will come to the lantern.

Image
The valve and valve block here are the first unusual thing to remove. If the generator is a Q99 or R55 (or a AGM rototype like this one) it needs to be removed first. If it's got a Q77 or T88, it can come out through the bottom with the valve, and has to in the latter case. Be sure there is no fuel under pressure in the fount before loosening the screw holding the valve in or you will have a mess on your hands.

Image
There are no fewer than three versions of this valve. This is, I believe, the least common one. Other early ones are bakelite and have a beveled, reeded edge (the Reese's cup wheel) and later ones resemble a late CQ or 242 wheel, but with "CLOSE" and the arrow on both sides. The valve body is strikingly similar to an iron valve; obviously machined differently on the incoming side though. As you can see, it is simply pressed into the block; this mating surface needs to be clean when it goes back together or it will leak. If the T88 generator is present, it can be noted that the valve then operates similar to a stove valve and generator; one must open it all the way to retract the tip cleaning needle. Given its awkward position, this was discontinued and the later ones do not accept the T88. Personally, I have found the R55 easier to live with in any case.

Image
If you have a 11/16 carburetor wrench (AKA a really thin one) you can use it here. If not, you don't need to loosen this to take the lantern apart, and can snug it with needlenose pliers when it goes back together. It doesn't need to be super tight, just enough to keep the frame from moving.

Now, the cringe:
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I've tried many others, but this tool fits the best around the airtube and frame, like so. To make you feel better, I use insulation:
Image

From here, I generally brace the vise-grip against a knee and turn the fount. This is the big part that gets people- The air tube does not come out. you have to turn it, the frame, and the collar together!
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It's easier to do this upside-down, but this lantern had fuel in it.

Now let's see what we get once it comes apart:
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There's a coupler here. Sometimes it stays on the fount. More often though, it comes along like this. Use a 1/2 inch wrench...
Image
Image
...And we see a 1/8 pipe connection. Search my topics started to see how you can use this to put a Slant on a different fount if yours has been compromised. Now, this is all there is to this one, but some later ones have a filter here that needs to be cleaned. Just so you don't ignore it then wonder why your lantern still doesn't work after you've taken it down and put it back together.

Now we can get to the source of 99 percent of Slant owners' headaches!!:
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This is another piece that's just held in by being pressed. It should just lift out with a little persuasion.

This, ladies and gentlemen, is what makes the Slant.
Image
It's a passive Fuel-Air pickup that depends on flow rate to work. If it's unmessed with, it will have a barrel-looking filter screwed on over the orifice here. There are two types of this, again early and late, but they theoretically work the same. See this thing? Looks like a generator tip tight?
Image
That's because the one in the picture is one. They are made the same. Now, this jet will be a little smaller than the gen tip orifice. (I actually use 200A tips to replace ones that are missing.) What this means is that on lighting, the lantern will pull more than that jet can provide, meaning some air comes along and atomizes the fuel. Once it's warm and the fuel is boiling in the generator, there's backpressure and it doesn't ask for so much, and the fuel flow cuts off the air. This is how the Slant works; this is how it fails also. With no way to manually clean this jet, it was susceptible to the impure fuel of the '20s and '30s. Letting it sit for a month with anything other than CF can cause it to clog with varnish. That's why I say, make the inside spotless and only use fresh clean CF in one of these. This particular one had old unleaded in it when I got it. It clogged again within hours of me putting it back together after this photo shoot, from the residual varnish that I have not been able to remove yet. If you don't want to deal with this, leave the jet out of it and pre-heat it exactly like a Quick-lite. It will absolutely work that way, and I know some of you pre-heat everything regardless to avoid sooting up your burners, so if you roll that way, you'll have a nice reliable BRIGHT light.

Putting it back together is mainly the reverse of taking it apart with a few caveats.
First, when you put the pickup back in, give it a spin counter-clockwise, so if it slips as you're tightening the coupler over it it won't ride up over the pump.
Second, make sure you have the collar oriented the right way up. The bottom of the indent has the rolled lip:
Image
If you're using a T88, put it on the valve first and slide it on in like so:
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Mine happened to have the end of the old T88 pricker snapped off in it. R55 is so much better to live with!
If using other generators, install the valve but leave it loose:
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Tighten the holder screw after the generator. That will ensure both are sealed.
Image

I hope this helps any of you who have one of these unique things. I'll leave off with my favorite picture of my favorite lantern:
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Thanks for looking!
Last edited by Gavercronos on Sun Nov 22, 2020 4:23 pm, edited 1 time in total.
WillCat

Chautauqua County, New York
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Tgarner01
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Re: How to FFR a Slant 220/228

#2

Post by Tgarner01 »

Well put Will! Exactly how I do it, except I use a large adjustable wrench to remove the burner. Everything else is exactly the same. This should be saved in the tech assist archive for sure 👍
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paulbarrette
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Re: How to FFR a Slant 220/228

#3

Post by paulbarrette »

Great post. When I find a slant, I will look this up again.

Pb
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Re: How to FFR a Slant 220/228

#4

Post by mshadduck »

Thanks, this was just what I was looking for!

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mgmlvks
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Re: How to FFR a Slant 220/228

#5

Post by mgmlvks »

That is extremely useful!
Thanks!!
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Re: How to FFR a Slant 220/228

#6

Post by Tigerfans2 »

53JR96_AS01.jpeg
Call me obtuse but what's the down side of clamping the 1/2" open faced wrench in a vice and turning the 1/8 pipe coupler out of the fount?
I ask because it's worked on my 4. Once the whole burner is out removing the coupler from it is easy.

And ive used a couple of 7 level screw drivers (see above) to gently pop the pickup up n out
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Gavercronos
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Re: How to FFR a Slant 220/228

#7

Post by Gavercronos »

I'm not sure I mentioned any downsides to other methods. This one is just what comes easiest to me, and I've had a bit of practice. Eight lanterns, each has come apart at least twice. If you have alternative ways of doing anything, by all means share!
As for the vise, I'm working under the assumption that a lot of our newer and younger collectors won't have one. You can get the five tools I have pictured anywhere, cheap, and keep them in a small drawer in an apartment, and do this on a sofa and a footstool. A bench vise requires a bench, which naturally implies a garage or workshop, etc.
WillCat

Chautauqua County, New York
Slant Saver [svg] Frank MakerNew York State Route 5 marker

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Re: How to FFR a Slant 220/228

#8

Post by P61guy »

Excellent explanation. Thank you for posting. My slant is surging after cleaning and a new generator. I’ll double check I truly got it clean.
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Re: How to FFR a Slant 220/228

#9

Post by Gunhippie »

Excellent!

I've done a sum total of one of these unique lanterns and it was a bit of an adventure.

Getting the FA tube back in was my biggest hassle--it's like some kind of Chinese puzzle. Just keep twistin' and shakin' and eventually it just falls into place.
It's priceless until someone puts a price on it.
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trapper
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Re: How to FFR a Slant 220/228

#10

Post by trapper »

Thanks for all the great info. I just got a project slant not to long ago.
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Re: How to FFR a Slant 220/228

#11

Post by MartyJ »

Thank you for the tutorial, very helpful.
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Re: How to FFR a Slant 220/228

#12

Post by paulbarrette »

Thanks for the tutorial and pics. I have one on the way.

Pb
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Re: How to FFR a Slant 220/228

#13

Post by holliswood »

This post has been a life saver, in addition to having a endoscope and some pointers from a few other collectors.

A question I have after going through four of these, now on my fifth is this:

On the end of the F/A Tube that sits on the top inside the bung, what’s the purpose of the groove? I’ve only had one that had a threadlike material wrapped around the groove.
Also, is there anything else that goes between the top of the F/A Tube and the adapter?

Thanks for any and all information.
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Re: How to FFR a Slant 220/228

#14

Post by Brightlight »

The groove at the top of the FA tube may just be to give something to grab onto to pull it out. There’s nothing that goes between the top of the FA tube and the adapter/nippple.
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Re: How to FFR a Slant 220/228

#15

Post by holliswood »

Brightlight wrote: Sun Sep 18, 2022 12:54 am The groove at the top of the FA tube may just be to give something to grab onto to pull it out. There’s nothing that goes between the top of the FA tube and the adapter/nippple.
Thank you for the info!
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Re: How to FFR a Slant 220/228

#16

Post by zoomkat »

"On the end of the F/A Tube that sits on the top inside the bung, what’s the purpose of the groove? I’ve only had one that had a threadlike material wrapped around the groove."

Just looking at the F/A pickup assembly, one of the two tubes most likely has to vent inside the top of the tank. Maybe the groove has something to do with this vent port.
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Re: How to FFR a Slant 220/228

#17

Post by Gasman64 »

Thank you very much for this, Willcat; somehow, I missed in back in when you first shared it. The pictures are very helpful, showing exactly what you have explained.
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