burner screen material

[alciuffetelli]

I've picked up a lot of lanterns lately and a few are missing the burner screens (just the screens). Any suggestions on what fairly easily obtainable material to use to cut out some of my own?

[Hot_Diggity]

The replacements I've seen all appear to be stainless steel. The easiest place to find stainless steel screen is in the cooking section of the local grocery store. I used a small hand strainer to make the preheat screen for my 231ish single fuel preheat experiment. It's held up just fine.

[Kay-Mo]

Would water faucet aerator screens be available individually? They would be stainless and may even be cut to about the right size.

-Ken

[zoomkat]

"Any suggestions on what fairly easily obtainable material to use to cut out some of my own?"

Be aware that the typical burner screen is a somewhat coarse mesh made with thick (as compared to some typical screen material) brass wire. The function of the burner screen is to be a low flow restriction flame arrester. That notion needs to be factored in when looking for alternative materials.

[JimL]

You could get screens from this guy.

200A size:
https://www.oldcolemanparts.com/product ... at=&page=1

220 size:
https://www.oldcolemanparts.com/product ... at=&page=1

[JimL]

Just as a follow up, if the screens are missing, check the condition of the burner caps themselves to make certain they can still hold the screen without it falling out.

[alciuffetelli]

think I'll try this...

[Gasman64]

Would water faucet aerator screens be available individually? They would be stainless and may even be cut to about the right size.

-Ken

Yes, Ken; I did just that when I needed one for my 237.

[Phredd]

Al,

I have used water faucet screens. One worked real well as a replacement for a Thermos lantern and it stopped that confounded popping. But it did restrict flow of a bit - so it is not as bright. It might be good to try to match the mesh size - which varied a lot over the evolution of Coleman lamps and lanterns.

I have also bought some replacement screens from OCP - they are the correct mesh and size and real easy to install.

Kevin

[alciuffetelli]

Al,

I have used water faucet screens. One worked real well as a replacement for a Thermos lantern and it stopped that confounded popping. But it did restrict flow of a bit - so it is not as bright. It might be good to try to match the mesh size - which varied a lot over the evolution of Coleman lamps and lanterns.

I have also bought some replacement screens from OCP - they are the correct mesh and size and real easy to install.

Kevin

I made a nice burner screen from the mesh I bought off Amazon...and the old 236 pops just like you described your experience without a screen. Before I replaced the screen and tied on a new mantle, I test fired and it seemed to run smoothly...nice blue flame...but not now. I know the check valve isn't sealing properly, even after cleaning, and I'll replace that, but I can't see how this would make it pop like this. The mesh I used says the grid is 1mm, which looks about right to me, but we'll see if this continues when I get the new burner cap and screen from Mike.

[alciuffetelli]

I finally got around to replacing the burner screen with the OCP part...and the 236 runs fine. When I went to tie on the new mantle, the "home made" screen I did with the material from Amazon disintegrated and fell out. This was supposed to be stainless, 1mm mesh...pretty sure this shouldn't have happened. Live and learn.