Lantern Parts and tool box project

[outlawmws]

I mentioned this elsewhere, and finally made some progress. It's not complete yet by a long shot, but I had most of this past week as a setback as the first coat of paint was with a nearly empty can, and it apparently didn't have enough solvent left inside to cure properly, so I had to spent a day or so soaking the top in paint thinner, then wiped part of the uncured paint off, then re-sanded, then repainted with a fresh can. It just finally got off a almost two days drying hinder a lamp...


What I started with was a 12 Ga. cleaning kit box off the pile. This one needed the most work, and it got it: sanded the rust out, carefully tapped the worst of the dings out (I missed at least one small one, and it has a couple of faint ripples...) and I flatted out a couple of minor edge whoopies with my sheet metal tongs. It's not perfect but Its good enough It will probably get more battle damage jsut being carried on camping trips...


So it went from this (I'd pulled the hinge pins..)




To this (I left the Bottom the original red as there was only "normal" wear and tear - no rust or dings...)



Yes it has the "Xmas lantern" look! I figured red and green were the predominant Coleman colors anyway!

So I'm asking opinions before I affix any Stickers:

What do you guys think of these different layouts for the two decals? I may also make one out of my sig logo and put that on as well...

Option 1



Option 2



Option 3



Option 4



And my first preliminary cut at the contents, or most of them. I'll make a card that fits snug in the top with straps for the spare mantles, and I didn't get to order the check valve tool from Cigar Mike as he was out of stock.

The Altoids tins have Petromax spare parts and filter felt in one, and leather pump cups in the other. The medicine bottle (I had to cut that one down for height, then super glue the two halves and then epoxy a reinforcing strip on the seam) has fuel pump gaskets and high temp gaskets for brass stoves.

I will be using some foam to silhouette the tools and keep the tins in place as well. Other than the missing CV tool I think I have all the needed drivers and wrench sizes, with a few other things thrown on.



Anyone see any glaring omissions?

I still need to replace the hinge pins, besides the above, but Its getting there!

Lastly a shout out and thank you to out host, Cigar Mike, for the fast turn on the parts and prior year patches I ordered! (Missing year one and last year..). I was surprised how excited SWMBO was to see the cool patches!

[outlawmws]

Hmmm, After further review: Option five!

[JimL]

>>Anyone see any glaring omissions?

I don't see oil for the pump cup.

Also, I don't understand why you'd want to use that yellow label on it. I find it an unnecessary distraction. I suggest keeping it inside with the mantles for when you have a GPA that needs it.

[outlawmws]

Good point on the oil!

That's a thought for the label on the inside; I'll consider it.

Thanks!

[chrisnjenn]

Option #2 without yellow label. Put yellow label inside. I like what you are doing.

[Newfie]

Yeah I'd put the yellow label inside. Definitely not outside. It's too big.

chrisnjenn wrote: Option #2 without yellow label. Put yellow label inside. I like what you are doing.

[outlawmws]

OK I wanted a pretty bullet proof (no pun intended) vial for the oil in the kit. so I made one from a 7MM mag case, a brass acorn nut and a brass thumb screw that was already pre-drilled for the oil stick wand i'll put in it.




I made a solder preform so I could simply heat and flow the solder hopefully minimizing any side slop solder.




I cleaned and fluxed the trimmed casing and positioned it:




And the finished Vial. I also had to plug the primer pocket with solder.

[Gasman64]

I liked option 4 (if it doesn't distract you, it's fine ) I really like the oil vial; it just fits in nicely with what the tool case was originally used for. In the second picture of the oil vial assembly (here's my ignorance showing), apparently the 2nd picture of the solder preform is showing the acorn nut already drilled and tapped, right? I'm also guessing some of the case neck was trimmed down.
Very nifty how it all worked out...

[Fuzzy]

The oil is going to be a bugger to get out with no air hole and being unable to squeeze it. I like the idea though.

How about a WWII style buttstock oiler, with a little dip stick in your cap. It looks like there is already a hole the thumb screw to put a wire or other dipper. Maybe a tiny coil spring at the end of the wire to hold more oil?

[outlawmws]

Steve, Yes exactly, I belt sanded the bottleneck off and only left a tiny bit of the shoulder for a solder pocket, (most of the solder wicked into the slip fit area of the nut)

It was pretty cool how well all the random bits came together. even the thumb screw cap had a pocket for the O ring (the old O-ring was toast) and was drilled and cross drilled so was probably a pressure relief for something. Pure chance the acorn nut had the same thread!

Chad, that oiler dip stick was already in the plan, with probably the tip beat out to a "spade" - I'm just looking For the right size wire for the hole. I like your spring idea as I would need more than a trace to oil pump leathers, but generally not tons. I'll have a bulk bottle for soaking old leathers, and that was the whole idea was to be able to have a little bit in the repair kit, as I don't have space for an 8 or 12 oz bottle...

[bridd]

That's a great kit, thanks for showing it outlaw. Here is mine and some of the recommendations for addition.

http://www.colemancollectorsforum.com/post/traveling-lantern-repair-kit-7466917?pid=1287619281

[mikew]

outlawmws wrote: Chad, that oiler dip stick was already in the plan, with probably the tip beat out to a "spade" - I'm just looking For the right size wire for the hole. I like your spring idea as I would need more than a trace to oil pump leathers, but generally not tons. I'll have a bulk bottle for soaking old leathers, and that was the whole idea was to be able to have a little bit in the repair kit, as I don't have space for an 8 or 12 oz bottle...

Would an F/A rod work? The brass end could be turned down to fit the hole in the cap.

[outlawmws]

Hi Mike,

I don't know on the F/A rod as I have none in the scrap pile; can someone mic one and let me know the size? When I get home I'll check the cap screw hole...

I do like the idea of keeping the rod in brass, so I'll see if I have some suitably sized brazing rod. I was considering copper wire, but it's awfully soft...

Hmmm possibly the tip can be folded in half with a tiny gap between so it hold oil.. Neatsfoot has some viscosity to it... I need to find/dig out my bottle of Neatsfoot oil!

[Fuzzy]

Brass rod? Sounds like a good use for a broken pricker!

[outlawmws]

OK the hole in the cap screw fits a drill .055. so now to go dig.. I already went back into the bin I got the acorn nut and cap screw from: I found two more cap screws, and Zero acorns...

[outlawmws]

A 200 pricker is either too big or too small (since its stepped). No luck on my brazing rods, all too big. Other brass rods I checked were also too big... Still looking...

[BSAGuy]

Very cool idea. I like just the Coleman decal on the lid.

[Fuzzy]

outlawmws wrote: A 200 pricker is either too big or too small (since its stepped). No luck on my brazing rods, all too big. Other brass rods I checked were also too big... Still looking...

Would light tapping seat the tapered portion and then solder to secure it in place work?

[Cottage_hill_bill]

Nice oiler and well built. This would save the labor, Lee-Enfield oiler. These were stored in the buttstock. Early ones (1888-1940ish) were brass, WWII saw plastic and bakelite versions. These are two random ebay adds just to show the two types.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lee-Enfield-SMLE-No-4-No-5-plastic-oiler-/112267214943?hash=item1a23a5c05f:gEwAAOSw65FXupnF

http://www.ebay.com/itm/WW1-Dated-British-Lee-Enfield-Buttstock-Oiler-/251773119608?hash=item3a9ed8ec78:g:5HEAAOSwDN1UTaq5

On the work bench I use an old plastic 35mm film canister filled about 1/4 with oil. just drop the pump leather in and let soak a minute. The canister is tight enough to store in a box.

Try a piece of copper wire for the spoon in your oil bottle. Easy to solder to the top and easy to beat into the shape you want. Doesn't need a lot of strength to dip oil.

[outlawmws]

Fuzzy wrote: Brass rod? Sounds like a good use for a broken pricker!

outlawmws wrote: A 200 pricker is either too big or too small (since its stepped). No luck on my brazing rods, all too big. Other brass rods I checked were also too big... Still looking...

Fuzzy wrote: Would light tapping seat the tapered portion and then solder to secure it in place work?

Well we have a winner! After having NO luck finding a bit of brass rod the perfect size, I got the broken pricker back out, and spun it over a belt sander and made it fit the hole to a light press fit.

I also made a test bend on the part that would be scrap, and dang if it didn't bend over cleanly and without snapping off! what was really surprising to me was that I always assumed the rod was solid. This one was hollow! So even more surprised that it didn't kink.

Finished Oil Dip stick and finished Oil Vial!

[outlawmws]

Bill, that Enfield oiler would be a good candidate; but I'm done, so I'll just have to use mine!

But I will keep a watch out for one while I do my usual yardsailing routine, just because it looks cool!

[outlawmws]

Well, I made more progress today and the box is nearly finished! I'm waiting for Cigar Mike to get more Check valve tools in stock and order it before I go any further as I want it to have a place in the foam.

I jiggered a few things around to improve density, (the oiler I made is inside the Altoids box that has the spare leather pump cups...) and I did a smaller tube for Q tips (had to trim off one head each..), but I added a few more things including a small brass/rubber hammer, and an angle screw driver (needed for the screws in some 242's)

The conceptual layout:




Foam glued together (I had to piece it together from old Pelican pre-cut foam)




Shaping up; the cardboard lid liner is covered with scrap burgundy velvet (SWMBO contributed project scraps) - Now I REALLY "need a Burg!





Shadowing is almost there, and the hinge pins have been replaced. I still need to shadow the flare wrench and when I have it the check valve tool. I made three elastic strap loops to hold a few spare mantles in the lid. That capsule for the fuel cap gaskets I had to cut down and then super glued the two halves together, then used epoxy and some strong thin synthetic fabric to wrap the seam for strength (think fiberglass).




I'm still undecided about the yellow tag. I'm still leaning to the top cover, but I may try to sort out a metal tab for it inside on the lid. I'm also trying to get a friend that is a Photoshop whiz to redo my "Outlaw" logo in my sig and I may put one of those on the cover.



Overall I'm pleased with progress, It's not perfect, but it is compact and doesn't have anything rattling around. I'll want to make a travel sleeve to pad it, probably out of a towel. A hand towel should be enough for it. .

[JimL]

>>It's not perfect...


LOL. If I had a tool kit that organized, I'd have to put it on display.

It looks great and very well thought out!

[outlawmws]

So as I mentioned elsewhere, I already outgrew this first tin box between parts and tools...

I was going to try a second tin box, keeping tin box #1 as a basics for travel. I don't need or want to keep a full fettleing kit in camping, even as small as this box is, and that is still in the plan (Maybe a red top and green bottom for tin box #2?)

But in another lantern box thread, I liked the idea of an aluminum box, and I remembered I'd bought a small shop built aluminum tool box. After work I did dig out the shop made Aluminum box from the garage, and when I first looked I thought "This won't hold the tin boxes, it's too short"

It's actually perfect in length, height, and just enough extra in width so fingers fit...

So the one Green top box will be the basic traveler, and this will be the home base everything box!

A couple of things I don't like about it:

• The fixed gate handle I need to come up with one that will lay flat or flatter.
• The Black paint. I'm thinking strip and polish.
• needs feet or something so it's padded on a table.
• I'd like to have a lid retainer. That could be hard with the close fitting tray

Here it is: Comments, ideas or suggestions welcome!




Its a WEl made little box despite a few shortcomings: The tray trails are aluminum bars screwed in place from the outside with flat-heads.





Here it is with both tin trays in it for a trial fit:



So I need to decide what goes in Tray #2 (Parts overstock?), and what goes in the box itself especially the top tray. I think the inside bottom will get something to keep the tin trays from getting scratched up.

[outlawmws]

Rolling back to post one and the patches I got from Cigar Mike for a moment here, as the OCP patch collection just closed one gap, thanks to fellow member dnishimura01 "The Secret Asian Man. Who lives a life of danger"

dnishimura01 PM'ed me and offered to send me a year 6 patch from OCP!

It arrived today; so thanks dnishimura01! I'm only missing year one now! For those that haven't seen last years, it's an early extended pump lantern!



Many thanks again dnishimura01!

outlawmws wrote:

Lastly a shout out and thank you to out host, Cigar Mike, for the fast turn on the parts and prior year patches I ordered! (Missing year one and last year..). I was surprised how excited SWMBO was to see the cool patches!

[outlawmws]

So it took a while to find a plastic container that would hols the tool box with a cover in place, then the black paint started out nearly impervious to the Simple green... A little wire brush and rotating it in the inch or so of SG as well as keeping it covered with paper towels soaked in SG and after almost a week Its looking like this Much of the paint came off in sheets some needed persuasion with a small SS wire brush.:

I finished off with SOS pads to remove the flyspecks of paint, and to see how close it could get to a smooth surface. I hit the tray with Mothers to see how it would look polished and I think some time with 600 grit and then the mothers and it would polish up pretty good!






I'm still on the fence about paint or polish. I'll do the 600 grit in the meantime ads either way it needs that...


The plan is that this will become the "mother-ship" for GPA tools and small parts & supplies, and will also hold two of these, with this one being the "road box" for camping trips in case of a problem.




I've bought some more decals for the boxes, and may get some more...

So I'm trying to decide will the decals look batter on paint or polished aluminum, and if I paint, what color? Red is common for tool boxes so,,, boring.

Green maybe... but the road box already has some green, and I was thinking of doing the second inside box reverse, red on top green on the bottom...