Project 288 Rebuild (Also covers 282, 285, 286, 290 & 295)

Instructions and How-to from members. Safety posts.
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Project 288 Rebuild (Also covers 282, 285, 286, 290 & 295)


Post by Murff »

Went out to the shed to work on a couple of my less favorite lanterns today that have been sitting on the bench to long. These lanterns either didn't work or pulsed badly.

After getting the first three working and burning very steady and bright, I remembered that there was ni 288 rebuild tutorial on the CCF. Now there will be, albeit it will be a bit abbreviated compared to the other tutorials. The other ones have all of the basic cleaning and check valve information. Some of that stuff comes standard after rebuilding a few lanterns.

This pictorial will also apply to the 282, 285, 286, 290 and 295 Coleman lanterns as all are very similar

The project is rebuilding a 1987 Coleman Model 288:

Remove the ball nut, vent and globe.

Then, remove the heat shield.

Next, loosen the generator jamb nut and the burner frame hold down nut.

Now remove the U clip.

Lift off the burner assembly.

Remove the valve wheel by removing the valve wheel screw. This could be standard or cross head.

Remove the frame rest (collar)

Next, we need to remove the valve assembly from the fount. The easiest way to do this is to put the valve in the jaws of a bench vise. The vise does not need to be tight.

Twist the fount with both hands. This may take a little bit of effort, but the valve should come loose. Once it is loose, remove the fount from the vise and remove the valve assembly by hand.

The valve assembly:

Next, remove the feed tube assembly from the valve.


Next, we will remove the much loved schrader valve from the top of the feed tube. This is done with a schrader valve removal tool. Easily purchased at a bicycle shop.

The schrader valve in the removal tool

Now that the schrader is out of the pick up assembly

...if you have an air compressor with a rubber blow tip, use it to blow out the fuel pick up tube.

My camera sucks for close up photos but on the fuel pick up tube, there are two small holes. One is near the top and is square in shape and the other is round and on the side near the bottom. If you blow through the tube, you should feel air escaping from both of those holes. It is easier to determine the holes are open with an air compressor.

Inside the bottom of the valve is the valve block. It may or may not come out while you are working on fuel pick up assembly. Just be careful not to lose it. If it does come out, make sure it goes back in correctly.

Be sure to clean the fount with either gasoline or do the BB dance to get it clean inside.


First, put the schrader valve back inside the fuel pick up tube. Just snug. Do not over tighten.

Then screw the fuel pickup assembly onto the valve.

The clean fount is now ready for the fuel valve assembly.

I apply a little Permatex 2 to the threads of the valve assembly before I install it on the fount. Be sure to clock the valve assembly over the Coleman decal. Make sure the valve is tight. If you have to go around one more revolution to get it tight, that's okay.

Next, put on your frame rest (collar).

Well crap! Actually, what should have happened next, and you need to do this only if it feels like your valve turns to easily, is to tighten the packing nut just a little.

Okay, next put the frame bottom on the valve assembly and collar.

Next, install the generator.

Now put the valve knob on and the screw that holds it on. Be sure to clock it correctly with the off and on settings.

Before we proceed, put some fuel into the lantern. Pump it up about 50 strokes. Now open the valve all the way. You should here air escaping from the generator. Give it a good 30 or more seconds and you should see fuel streaming or pulsing from the generator. If you see it, great! If not, you may have crud in the fount.

If you have no air coming out of the fount when you open the valve, you either have no pressure or perhaps a clogged generator.

Next, put the burner assembly on and then the U clip. You may need to loosen the generator jamb nut to get the burner frame
nut tight. Once you have done that, be sure re-tighten the generator lamb nut.

Since I buggered up the old mantles, new ones are installed. Once burned off, the rebuilt 288 is ready for action!

These lantern are fairly easy to tear down and rebuild. The four below were all done inside of two hours total. All now burn bright & steady with little or no pulsing!

Hope this helps a little !

I will leave this here for a few days and then move it to to How-To Forum.


Name: Murff   ICCC Member #726 
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Project 288 Rebuild (Also covers 282, 285, 286, 290 & 295)


Post by Deanofid »

May I make a suggestion? (I had my hand up for a long time, but you didn't call
on me.)

If a person has to take the valve out of the fount, since that is the most work you can
do to these, I suggest they replace the schrader valve with a new one, or replace the
complete fuel pick up, which includes the schrader. The whole tube is only about $4.

Good work on the write up, Murff!
Dean -Midnight Kerosene Ritualist--Deans Machine:  
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Project 288 Rebuild (Also covers 282, 285, 286, 290 & 295)


Post by curlyjoe_99 »

Agree with Dean.

for all but experienced maintainers that can do this in their sleep, you have the lantern apart and removing the schrader risks distorting the seals on it. putting a new schrader in almost certainly ensures that your lantern won't have the schrader leak.

and secondly, you should have one on hand before you begin, in case the schrader is buggered when you remove it.

they are cheap at OCP and just add one or two to your next order from Mike
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Project 288 Rebuild (Also covers 282, 285, 286, 290 & 295)


Post by Chucker »

And for newbies, this fettle covers lanterns which have early designations as CL1 (286), CL2 (288), and CLX's(290).

Good stuff Murff, thanks.
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Project 288 Rebuild (Also covers 282, 285, 286, 290 & 295)


Post by Gulfport69 »

just what I needed to see before attempting to service my inoperable 288.

Thank you!
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Project 288 Rebuild (Also covers 282, 285, 286, 290 & 295)


Post by brokenotbroken »

Man, I wish I read this before tearing into my CL2 last night. Instead of removing the valve knob to remove the collar, I decided to unscrew the packing nut on the valve assembly. Why? Because I like to make things difficult. I put it back together and it seems to work fine. Great how-to. Thanks!
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Project 288 Rebuild (Also covers 282, 285, 286, 290 & 295)


Post by Northman49 »

The valve block doesn't show up on the parts it part of some assembly?
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