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Posted: Thu Dec 18, 2008 2:20 am
I know this has probably been answered in the past but please humor me.I was only bitten by the lantern bug last year and now probably own more lanterns than a sane person should, according to my wife.What is the best way to mothball lanterns so the fonts don't collect condensation and rust?Is it best to just dump out the coleman fuel or can WD40 be sprayed in the fonts for storage?Will residue from WD40 be detrimental to the generators?All my lanterns are users but here in the northeast there is snow on the ground so I will not be using them much till spring.
Posted: Thu Dec 18, 2008 4:39 am
If you have any rare or mint condition lanterns in your ever-growing collection, you can send them to me for proper storage.
We hardly get any rain here in Seattle!
Posted: Fri Dec 19, 2008 3:13 pm
A note here about WD-40, in some articles I have read about care for weapons it has mentioned not to use WD-40, but a high quality oil instead on the metal finish, something about the water displacing qualites of WD-40 is not good long term protection from moisture. Maybe someone else knows more about the specifics. Since some of the guys here mentioned Aero Kroil
I have been putting a spritz of that in the fount and on the parts. I have also used ATF automtive transmission fluid as it has a lot of inhibitors added, but think those tanks will have to be carefully flushed before reuse.
Posted: Fri Dec 19, 2008 5:25 pm
Hi Shobar, it may work fine, just after I read about it (WD-40) I hesitate to use it now for steel protection. It sure is a versatile product, I just looked on my garage shelves and think this is the first time I have not seen a can of it for many years. The one thing I don't care for about the Kroil is that it is kind of stinky, aromatic, but it does work very well on stuck joints, I don't know how well it protects metal either.
note; I just realized one of my neighbors borrowed my can of WD-40, maybe a year ago!
Posted: Fri Dec 19, 2008 9:42 pm
Hey Bob, I knew just what you were talking about when you mentioned the big dust mops, but how you could possibly remember that is beyond me, lol.
Posted: Fri Dec 19, 2008 11:50 pm
The school janitor also had a handle on his broom or mop that was taller than himself! That was so he didn't have to lean over when working and screw up his back.
Notice the short handles on todays work tools! Small wonder 80% of us have lower back pain.
Posted: Sat Dec 20, 2008 4:11 am
Who could forget that smell. To me it smelled like Wintergreen and on the wood floors and stairs had a nice sheen. I never use WD as I find that it attracts moisture. I use some Kero, swish it around, pour it out, and leave the valve wheel backed out and the fuel cap loose
Posted: Sat Dec 20, 2008 5:19 am
I would think a little spray of Kroil on the check valve ballbearing would be just the ticket for long term storage. I am wondering how it would do on a check valve that leaks...maybe loosen the grit and make it actually stop the leaking air.
Posted: Sat Dec 20, 2008 5:22 am
Funny now that you mention it, I do remember that clean smell just after the janitor dust mopped the hallways in school. Weird.
Posted: Sat Dec 20, 2008 10:01 pm
Read Bob's post above, that is what I do too.
Jules, the Aero Kroil has worked on a leaking check valve for me a couple or times, forced some through the check ball valve and got lucky, not sure if it just flushed something out or cleaned it up enough, but was happy with the result. When I get a new one now I look at the leather and inside of the pump and clean them up before I try to use them, dang if it hasn't really cut down on check valve problems, seems many times old leather bits get forced into the valve. Got some new leathers recently, 10, now wish I had gotten 20.