Blue threadlocker or?

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10gage
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Blue threadlocker or?

#1

Post by 10gage »

I bought a 427 the other day and either the pump was installed on the left or it was later overtightened a half turn. Most pics I have seen have the pump to the right of the valve. If I tighten the valve snug the pump is to the left of the valve. If I put where it most likely should be the valve is not very tight and is easily moved. I usually use blue threadlocker. Is there something I should use instead to seal it better? Still cleaning up parts so haven’t tried to see if it would leak at the valve being a little loose. Thanks
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Re: Blue threadlocker or?

#2

Post by JimL »

There are many sealers on the market, but if it will be loose at all, I would stick with the blue thread locker. I know some folks use the red, and I just posted about it in another thread. The question I ask of folks using the red is never answered, and that's how much heat is required to remove it? As a result of never getting a response, I visualize needing the heat of a cutting torch. :)
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Re: Blue threadlocker or?

#3

Post by Tgarner01 »

James something to keep in mind on these Quicklites is if the collar will fit where you have your valve placed. You don't have much wiggle room with the small valve opening in the collar.
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Re: Blue threadlocker or?

#4

Post by Majicwrench »

JIm, I am sure I have replied to somebody in the past about red threadlocker, which I use a lot of at work and on GPA's . Not sure where folks got the impression it can't be taken back apart. In something like a lantern valve you wont need heat unless you want to.
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Re: Blue threadlocker or?

#5

Post by JimL »

Keith,

I've either read it on the packaging or on the company's website that heat was needed to remove. Not that it couldn't be removed, but that the part needed heat to break the bond, without specifying how much heat Regardless, I'm good with the blue. How would you compare the blue to the red?
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Re: Blue threadlocker or?

#6

Post by arizonacamper »

Red threadlocker the heavy-duty stuff takes 400° Fahrenheit to soften it to allow removal. I use this stuff all the time in automotive work but never on a GPA. blue threadlocker will be just fine.
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Re: Blue threadlocker or?

#7

Post by 10gage »

Well like I said I normally use blue. I’ll let it cure a bit before spinning the valve in and give it a try. Thanks
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Re: Blue threadlocker or?

#8

Post by kellyblues »

JimL wrote: Sat Apr 03, 2021 1:51 am There are many sealers on the market, but if it will be loose at all, I would stick with the blue thread locker. I know some folks use the red, and I just posted about it in another thread. The question I ask of folks using the red is never answered, and that's how much heat is required to remove it? As a result of never getting a response, I visualize needing the heat of a cutting torch. :)
Jim I didn't catch that question but I'll share now. I used red a long time ago. One day on a trans E I realized too late that I left the spring out of the F&A tube. Even with heat I thought I was going to twist the bung out of the fount. Been using blue ever since
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Re: Blue threadlocker or?

#9

Post by rob_pontius »

I use Gasoila red hard set for all of mine. Its the same exact stuff that Coleman used for many years during the assembly process.
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Re: Blue threadlocker or?

#10

Post by Dmacp »

I use Gasoila red hard set for all of mine. Its the same exact stuff that Coleman used for many years during the assembly process.
+1

With locktite you may have a problem if the parts are too clean or if you use the primer. I always leave a bit of oil on the threads. If you get locktite blue under a flathead screw, like in a scope-it will seize it.
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Re: Blue threadlocker or?

#11

Post by gpaguy »

I have some of this thread locker orange here that is designed so that you can break it loose if you need too and it's as strong as red.


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Re: Blue threadlocker or?

#12

Post by brucesheehe »

Permatex 2 - soft set - gasket maker
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Re: Blue threadlocker or?

#13

Post by JimL »

>>I use Gasoila red hard set for all of mine. Its the same exact stuff that Coleman used for many years during the assembly process.

I personally can't imagine why anyone would ever want to intentionally to use that stuff.

Edited to fix grammar.
Last edited by JimL on Thu Apr 08, 2021 1:44 am, edited 2 times in total.
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Re: Blue threadlocker or?

#14

Post by kellyblues »

JimL wrote: Sat Apr 03, 2021 12:14 pm >>I use Gasoila red hard set for all of mine. Its the same exact stuff that Coleman used for many years during the assembly process.

I personally can't imagine why anyone would ever want to intentionally want to use that stuff.
I'm with you on that one. At least not on a GPA you may have to take apart and clean at a later date. That's why I stopped using red locktite .
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Re: Blue threadlocker or?

#15

Post by gpaguy »

Hmmm...If only Permatex made a removable thread locker for fans of lock tight products....wait they do and it's called ORANGE !


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Re: Blue threadlocker or?

#16

Post by Ridge Runner »

If I have concerns about clocking issues I use Permatex #1 hard set. I’d use Red Gasoila hard set if I had it.

For everything else I use Indian Head shellac.

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Re: Blue threadlocker or?

#17

Post by zoomkat »

"I usually use blue threadlocker. Is there something I should use instead to seal it better? "
I'd try a good pipe dope or thread sealant instead of products made for locking bolts and screws in place. If the valve assembly is physically lose at the desired clock position, I might try teflon tape to ease into the desired position.
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Re: Blue threadlocker or?

#18

Post by Nevada_Ed »

Lots of good advise and choices, I have used BLUE thread locker fir a long time, it works well!

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Re: Blue threadlocker or?

#19

Post by Gunhippie »

JimL wrote: Sat Apr 03, 2021 1:51 am There are many sealers on the market, but if it will be loose at all, I would stick with the blue thread locker. I know some folks use the red, and I just posted about it in another thread. The question I ask of folks using the red is never answered, and that's how much heat is required to remove it? As a result of never getting a response, I visualize needing the heat of a cutting torch. :)
As per Loc Tite, 288*F will completely soften the bond. I'm pretty sure I never get that hot when breaking things loose that have been red-locked. Any European equipment will generally have red Loc Tite on every single fastener, so I've had more than a little experience breaking it loose.

I use Loc Tite 542, which is meant as a thread sealer and locker. It rarely needs heat to break loose, but when it does, I'd guess I'm hitting right around the boiling point of water--205* hereabouts.
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Re: Blue threadlocker or?

#20

Post by Majicwrench »

Just as an experiment Friday I took a brand new 1/4 20 nut and bolt, put some red loctite on and screwed em loosely together. Saturday I got anal and tightly wrapped it all with electrical tape to seal out the O2.

I just now put the bolt head in my vice and loosened the nut with less than 10ft lbs of force, no heat.
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Re: Blue threadlocker or?

#21

Post by sleebus »

Ridge Runner wrote: Sat Apr 03, 2021 3:03 pm For everything else I use Indian Head shellac.
Yup, that's exactly what I use.
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Re: Blue threadlocker or?

#22

Post by curtludwig »

I use whatever my hand falls on first. The shelf has blue loctite, permatex #1 and #2 and PTFE tape. The tape is actually the worst choice because it can still allow the valve to move but it usually works fine.

The take-away for any newbies reading this thread is that there are plenty of ways to skin this particular cat. None of them is the "right" answer per-say, if it works for you thats great.
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Re: Blue threadlocker or?

#23

Post by mksmth »

blue locker for me too. but i also have used yellow teflon tape.
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Re: Blue threadlocker or?

#24

Post by sleebus »

curtludwig wrote: Tue Apr 06, 2021 1:48 pm The tape is actually the worst choice because it can still allow the valve to move but it usually works fine.
I would say another risk with using the tape is that you lower the friction in the fitting, which makes it easier to screw in too far and split the fitting...which would be a total bummer. No tape for me.
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Re: Blue threadlocker or?

#25

Post by JimL »

I haven't split anything from using the Teflon tape, but because Teflon tape is so slick, it's easy to overclock the valve. Once you realize this and see that the valve is now too loose when you get it clocked right because the threads are damaged, you can now switch to the thread locker to hold it in place where it should have been to begin with. :) Blue Permatex thread locker is my preference.
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Re: Blue threadlocker or?

#26

Post by dbosch »

I have used 262 red in the past on valves and never had to heat it to remove it. Tapered threads allow it.
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Re: Blue threadlocker or?

#27

Post by florida_grown »

The heat issue I've found with red is when applied in bi similar materials alum-steel or copper- alum, just a bit of heat required in prudence, blue seems good with total cleaning of threads both male and female in a more forgiving adherence parameters with more similar materials or less torque requirements.
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Re: Blue threadlocker or?

#28

Post by Rhubarb »

I prefer to use and reccomend Loctite (brand) 242.

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Re: Blue threadlocker or?

#29

Post by sjsjr86s »

really you'll mostly be sealing in air pressure as resistance to turning will come from pressure from the framerest pinched between the frame and fount so take yer pick hopefully the bunghole's not cracked. Yes I was being slightly juvenile there sue me :lol:
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Re: Blue threadlocker or?

#30

Post by sjsjr86s »

another thought for all here with more experience than I... do they make a heli-coil for that thread pitch?
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Re: Blue threadlocker or?

#31

Post by MYN927 »

I've never used the red (high strength) threadlocker on a lantern or stove. So I'm not sure how hard it'll hold on brass fittings.
I've used them on high tensile steel bolts/nuts and other threaded parts. Application: Well-torqued upon tightening so as to attain anaerobic curing between the threads.
Result: I could hardly loosen them without heat. -- Only managed a couple of tiny ones but with great difficulty and simply too much force required for comfort.
I prefer blue(threadlocker) for anything that requires frequent removal.
For sealing, I'd say Permatex soft set, #2 or Loctite 572, 577 or some other similar pipe dope. Gasoila's not available in my area.
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Re: Blue threadlocker or?

#32

Post by outlawmws »

sjsjr86s wrote: Thu Apr 08, 2021 6:14 am another thought for all here with more experience than I... do they make a heli-coil for that thread pitch?
They make Pipe thread heli-coils - whether it's for the threads involved, depends. Coleman didn't always stick with NPT...

http://catalog.swaco.com/viewitems/heli ... ead-series

Having said that I can't quite get my head wrapped around getting a leak proof seal with a heli-coil in there? :?:
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Re: Blue threadlocker or?

#33

Post by sjsjr86s »

@outlawmws I would assume that if it's a tapered thread that the valve would wedge against the coil and then the coil against the fount. maybe some sealer at that point but now the scenario's getting janky. If I ever hit the lotto or amass a windfall of any other sort i promise to open a metalworking shop to make reproduction founts, valves and burners for all models. no bs. all u need is a good lathe and some measurements am I right?
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Re: Blue threadlocker or?

#34

Post by Gunhippie »

Single mantle Colemans are tapped 1/8" NPT, a standard plumbing thread. Double-mantles, at least from the Instant-Lite on, are tapped with a thread that has vanished from the face of the Earth. It's commonly referred to as a "proprietary" Coleman thread, but was used on several other gas appliances in the day. My Turner gasoline blowtorch, for instance.
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Re: Blue threadlocker or?

#35

Post by sjsjr86s »

Gunhippie wrote: Thu Apr 08, 2021 5:18 pm Single mantle Colemans are tapped 1/8" NPT, a standard plumbing thread. Double-mantles, at least from the Instant-Lite on, are tapped with a thread that has vanished from the face of the Earth. It's commonly referred to as a "proprietary" Coleman thread, but was used on several other gas appliances in the day. My Turner gasoline blowtorch, for instance.
bummer! So I will be sure to watch my torque then.
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Re: Blue threadlocker or?

#36

Post by Gunhippie »

I should have added that the Quicklites and earlier also used the 1/8" NPT tapping.
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