I got to the hardware store yesterday and bought some more Rusto Antique Copper (in the crappy trigger can). Gave the existing finish a good scuff-sand with some steel wool, blew it off, rinsed with DNA and shot a couple of coats of the copper followed by two more of Rusto Clear Engine Enamel 500F. Baked it good and let it sit overnight.
Time for final assembly!
You're going to need some extension to get those two 3/8" nuts that hold the frame back on:
Next, place the base plate over the valve with the lighting door lined up with the notch and the frame legs in their notches (I thought I had a pic for this, but it disappeared). Then put the thin, 1/2" nut over the valve stub to hold the frame on. Tighten enough to keep things from moving.
Now comes the pricker:
Getting that gear-drive cleaning lever lined up with the gear of the pricker so the lever is down-to-run was a bit of a fiddle.
Next, the gen.
Hey, I just noticed that the nut that holds the burner assembly on is also a gen wrench!
Slip the gen over the pricker and use a loupe to be sure the pricker wire is doing it's thing:
Use the burner nut to tighten and leave the nut hanging on the gen to keep it out of the way.
The burner assy. slips over the vale stub and is held in place by that nifty, multi-purpose nut:
I added 28 oz of fuel--my normal load for a 220. This beast can probably hold twice that, but, hey, it's a test. Tied on a couple of late Silkies and:
While those were burning in, I pumped it up. And pumped and pumped. Might need a new leather, but it does the job eventually.
Are we ready to see the light?
!!!!!!
Rinnai time!! 
![[Logo%20Outlaw-half]](https://d28lcup14p4e72.cloudfront.net/50792/4026128/Logo%20Outlaw-half.png)
![[DrSteve2]](https://d28lcup14p4e72.cloudfront.net/50792/4217452/DrSteve2.jpg)
Steve , Keeper of the Light !!!
